Searching for the Tocororo

Went down to Playa Larga at the Cuban south coast to do some scuba diving in january 2008. In the evening I accidentally ran into a man in the street. He approached me and started to suggest an excursion out to the nearby Zapata swamps.

Suspecting he was another of these dealers that one has to get rid of, I made him a joke,  – do you guarantee that we will spot the Tocororo..? (knowing that even for Cubans it´s a rare thing to see the national bird)

-not only will you see the Tocororo he said,  you will also see the Zunzuncito!
(Bee Hummingbird, the smallest bird in the world)

If I don´t deliver you don’t pay me..
Well.. I had my friend, a Cuban journalist as a witness.

Next morning at five o´clock we headed by car towards La Ciénaga de Zapata.

I was thinking in the car looking at the mans equipment: tape recorders and stuff.. this guy at least looks like a serious ornithologist! Later on I realised I had been lucky to have met the acknowledged birdwatcher  El Chino Orestes Martínez.

The swamps are located close to the Bay of pigs and it´s a well-known habitat for
a variety of animals.
The hunt for the Tocororo started of badly. We saw nothing the first hour or so. “El Chino” whistled and imitated the birds constantly but nothing, nada. We were almost about to give up..

Then suddenly the shy bird appeared. It’s a beautiful creature dressed in the colors of the Cuban flag. I managed to get some acceptable photos of it.

At the end of the excursion we had observed a dozen Tocororos a couple of
Zunzuncitos and some other birds as a bonus.

“El Chino” got his well deserved compensation with an extra tip..

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

World class salsa

Cuban dancer Kirenia Cantín at the Salsa Congress in Gothenburg 2010,
performing together with Maykel Fonts. The two are considered among the best
Cuban style dancers in the world.

Un café por favor

At nightfall we stumbled into this coffee plantation after many hours of climbing the Mogote mountain. The owner, an old Dominican and his daughter welcomed us with an excellent cup of coffee.
A group of Haitian immigrants took care of the heavy work. There is about a million Haitians in Dominican Republic looking for a better life compared to what they have in their extremely poor home country. There is tension between Dominicans and Haitians. Xenophobia and mistreatment are not uncommon. Luckily we didn´t notice any sign of bad atmosphere at this “cafetal”

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Julia

Julia lives in the small village of Enriquillo, on the southwestern coastline of Dominican Republic.

I was told that she won a small fortune in the national lottery some years ago. Being illiterate, unaccustomed to numbers and perhaps a bit credulous, the money vanished in less than a year.

She kept talking about this and that, but the one expression she
repeated over and over was  “y.. que no me venga nadie a decirme que no haya un Dios..”  I dont want to hear anyone say that there is no God !

A night out in Santo Domingo

On the other side of the Ozama River “en aquel lado” you´ll find one of the busiest party strips in Santo Domingo, Avenida Venezuela . Loud music, lots of beer and couples dancing bachata..

Centro Habana

The author Pedro Juan Gutiérrez  looking out from his apartment over Centro Habana. The story in his book Dirty Havana trilogy, takes place around this very building and the surrounding quarters of the city.